VAJOLET TOWERS – alpin climbing in the CATINACCIO

Difficulty: medium
Dates: dates on request
Price: 160 - 320 €
Number of participants: max. 2

The Vajolet Towers is a beautiful climbing in the Catinaccio/Rosengarten mountain group and are one of the most famous rock formations in the Dolomites.

Together there are ten summits, roughly divided into two subgroups. The six unknown northern Vajolet Towers are rather massive while the four southern ones are fine needlelike spires. The southern Towers are most interesting and you find a lot fine routes.

The three large Towers  Delago – Stabeler – Winkler all have quite a number of routes in various difficulties III-IV+, mostly of 120 – 150m length (mostly four pitches). The smaller Piaz Tower has two routes of each 60m length.

Stabeler Tower:  South Face “Fehrmann”:

With their ascent of the corner system on the South Face of the Stabeler Tower, the two Saxony Sandstone pioneers Rudolf Fehrmann and Oliver Perry-Smith made the most strikingly obvious line on the wall their very own.
Difficulty: III-IV, one section IV+
Height difference: 145 m
Climbing route: 155 m + 10 m to the summit
Rope-lengths: 6 + 10 m to the summit
Hours: 2.30
Rock: excellent

Delago Tower: South-West Arête “Delagokante”:

The “Delagokante” is one of the most celebrated of all Alpine climbs. As a result it is very popular – on summer days every stance is occupied. If this human route-finding system should fail, just follow the polished holds. Despite its popularity, with such a magnificent position the climbing on the arête on little edges and flakes, cannot fail to inspire, from the first moves right up to the summit of the tower
Difficulty: IV, one passage IV+
Height difference: 130 m
Climbing route: 156 m
Rope-lengths: 6
Hours: 2.30
Rock: excellent, last rope-lenght good

Winkler Tower: “Winkler Crack” (South and East wall):

The route uses the obvious South Face crack and chimney system to begin with. From the shoulder there are two possible variations: either climb the South-East Arête direct (the original, and easier, route) or the corner/groove system round on the East Face (more difficult).
Difficulty: IV+, the original crack V
Height difference: 140 m
Climbing route: 169 m + 57 m route 37
Rope-lengths: 7 + 2 route 37
Hours: 2.30
Rock: excellent

The starting point:

Take the paved road from Pera di Fassa, usually by taxi or with the mountain guide by car to just below the Rifugio Gardeccia.
From rifugio Gardeccia take the trailhead upwards to Rifugio Preuss and Rifugio Vajolet. Here the steep ascent to rifugio Gartl at the base of the Vajolet Towers starts. The scramble is quite demanding but never exceeds grade I. Total time on approach is 1.5-2 hours.

view from the top to Bolzano

the smal tower Piz Piaz and the via Fehrmann on the Stabeler Tower

VAJOLET TOWERS – alpin climbing in the CATINACCIO

climbing on the Delago Tower

vajolet towers climbing

the smal Piz Piaz Tower

vajolet towers climbing

climbing on the Delago Tower

vajolet towers climbing

the normal route on the Stabeler Tower

VAJOLET TOWERS – alpin climbing in the CATINACCIO

abseiling from the Delago Tower

vajolet towers climbing

abseiling

VAJOLET TOWERS – alpin climbing in the CATINACCIO

sunrise in October on the Vajolet Towers climbing